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Shagger

New System Build

16 posts in this topic

My previous PC build was a disaster, but I have just been granted a cashflow opportunity that may lend me the chance to try again.

 

I am being ambitious, but my hope is to make this build powerfull and long lived with an initial build as straightforward as possible with good excess of wattage and good cable management and so on so I can hopefully avoid some of the problems I had last time. Here it is in theory;

 

Any thoughts?

 

EDIT:

 

Based on advice given, I've made a second theory build and that is what I'm linking to now as I've abandoned the first one

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ShaggerAJSA/saved/#view=fv9NGX

 

This is actually the cheaper of the two builds because the price for the case isn't listed in build 1

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55£ disc player thing?

100£ OS? Are you insane?

Just go on g2a its like 20$ there 

Also the rest is 

search?q=ok&client=ms-android-sprint-us&

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50 minutes ago, ichig1vsnarut0 said:

55£ disc player thing?

100£ OS? Are you insane?

Just go on g2a its like 20$ there 

Also the rest is 

search?q=ok&client=ms-android-sprint-us&

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll look around for better deals on Windows.

 

As for the disc player... yeah. Wanna copy my CD's and play DVD's and Blu-Ray's. What of It? 

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You dinosaur pirate 

 

 

Velocirapter likes this

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I'd wait just a little longer, the GTX 1080Ti and the I7 7700k expected to release in January so if you hold on you can either pick up some uprated parts or pick up the current ones when price drops witch it will.

 

Also unless you plan to install a second graphics card that 1000W PSU is really not necessary.  I would recommend scaling back on that and spending a little more on the Motherboard or other peripherals.  I would recommend one with built in WiFi plus Bluetooth like THIS one.

 

One more thing, don't bother with the thermal paste, I've got some.

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32 minutes ago, Crazycrab said:

I'd wait just a little longer, the GTX 1080Ti and the I7 7700k expected to release in January so if you hold on you can either pick up some uprated parts or pick up the current ones when price drops witch it will.

 

Also unless you plan to install a second graphics card that 1000W PSU is really not necessary.  I would recommend scaling back on that and spending a little more on the Motherboard or other peripherals.  I would recommend one with built in WiFi plus Bluetooth like THIS one.

 

One more thing, don't bother with the thermal paste, I've got some.

 

I changed the motherbord, but that radically changed the build because of colour shceme and compatibilty issues with some of the other parts, so here is theory build 2

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ShaggerAJSA/saved/#view=fv9NGX

 

I've pegged back the the psu, SSD and ditched the OS for now, but will need it.

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21 hours ago, Shagger said:

 

I changed the motherbord, but that radically changed the build because of colour shceme and compatibilty issues with some of the other parts, so here is theory build 2

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/ShaggerAJSA/saved/#view=fv9NGX

 

I've pegged back the the psu, SSD and ditched the OS for now, but will need it.

Not bad but unless you are going to be working a lot with digital media storage or virtualization do you really need a 4TB hard drive?

A 2TB Blue is about the highest I would recommend for gaming or a standard small office desktop, also for about the same price as the 4TB Blue you could get a 2TB Black and get a little bit better performance and reliability.

As far as OS, DO NOT SKIM ON THE OS!

Expect to pay about $100 for a legit copy of Windows 10 Home OEM or about $150 for a copy for Windows 10 Pro OEM, OEM is the version of Windows designed for system builders and there for if you rebuild your computer later or mess up after you activate your OS you can call Microsoft and let them know that you need to reactivate your OS with the same activation code, if you buy the retail copy Microsoft is not obligated and probably will not let you reactivate your OS using the same code and you'll have to repurchase your OS.

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23 hours ago, InstantAce said:

Not bad but unless you are going to be working a lot with digital media storage or virtualization do you really need a 4TB hard drive?

A 2TB Blue is about the highest I would recommend for gaming or a standard small office desktop, also for about the same price as the 4TB Blue you could get a 2TB Black and get a little bit better performance and reliability.

As far as OS, DO NOT SKIM ON THE OS!

Expect to pay about $100 for axactly legit copy of Windows 10 Home OEM or about $150 for a copy for Windows 10 Pro OEM, OEM is the version of Windows designed for system builders and there for if you rebuild your computer later or mess up after you activate your OS you can call Microsoft and let them know that you need to reactivate your OS with the same activation code, if you buy the retail copy Microsoft is not obligated and probably will not let you reactivate your OS using the same code and you'll have to repurchase your OS.

 

I have to disagree, I just purchased a legitimate Windows 10 Pro code for my nephew's PC upgrade for £25. Also as long as it's the same motherboard and activated on the same Microsoft account it doesn't need to be OEM for reactivation either.  Even if you can't you can buy 5 or 6 codes and still not spend as much.

 

When it comes to storage more is....... well more.  Without counting any other media my and Shagger's shared Steam library is just over 2Tb so obviously he needs more if he wants to avoid deleting and re-instaling. Speed wise the only way you would see a significant difference in gaming load times is if It's installed on an SSD instead.  A Black will see copy and transfer speeds that are a little faster but that's it, bigger is better.

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17 hours ago, Velocirapter said:

Just curious, what went wrong in your last build?

 

I'm not completely sure. After a couple of moths the computer just died completely and no matter what I did I just couldn't get it going again. I think it was some kind of short or something caused by most likely me not putting something on correctly.

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On 11/28/2016 at 1:01 PM, Shagger said:

 

I'm not completely sure. After a couple of moths the computer just died completely and no matter what I did I just couldn't get it going again. I think it was some kind of short or something caused by most likely me not putting something on correctly.

Oooo, better luck on your new build!

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On 26/11/2016 at 5:24 PM, InstantAce said:

Not bad but unless you are going to be working a lot with digital media storage or virtualization do you really need a 4TB hard drive?

A 2TB Blue is about the highest I would recommend for gaming or a standard small office desktop, also for about the same price as the 4TB Blue you could get a 2TB Black and get a little bit better performance and reliability.

As far as OS, DO NOT SKIM ON THE OS!

Expect to pay about $100 for a legit copy of Windows 10 Home OEM or about $150 for a copy for Windows 10 Pro OEM, OEM is the version of Windows designed for system builders and there for if you rebuild your computer later or mess up after you activate your OS you can call Microsoft and let them know that you need to reactivate your OS with the same activation code, if you buy the retail copy Microsoft is not obligated and probably will not let you reactivate your OS using the same code and you'll have to repurchase your OS.

 

Thanks for the advice. a quick situation report. I have bought a code for Windows 10 pro and will be buying have hardware soon

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Pro tip: do NOT use anything slower than 7200RPM for a Game Drive.

 

BF4, BF1, Black Desert, WORLD OF WARCRAFT, all take about 1 minute to load the world (start the timer at the load screen) running on a WD Red with 'Intellipower' RPM (variable RPM, but maxes at 5400RPM).

 

And I would recommend at least a 3TB HDD for games. Games these day's run about 45GB each. 40 games may seem like a lot...but Steam's currently got 44 games listed as installed. Most of them I play at least once a month or have saved progress that I really don't want to chance Steam Cloud keeping.

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Couple of small changes made. I've gone for a cheaper (but larger) SSD and swapped the 2130MHz ram for 2400Mhz. Thanks for tha advice illutian. I had already changed the HDD out for a 3TB 7200 because... well, you're right.

 

I don't think I'll make any more changes for now, butwill wait a bit to do the build with the 1080ti just round the corner I'll wait and see if i'm better of with that of the standard 1080. The main reason I wan't for this perticular 1080 is it's size and power consumption may be closer to the 1080ti than others.

 

M0cDZ4v.jpg

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That's everything bought except the GPU. Still wanna keep my options open on that. God, I hope I don't make a mess of it this time. Wish me luck.

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That's it, build part all baught, should be up and running in few days. I decided to go for the R9 Radeon Pro Duo for the video card becuse;

  1. It outperforms the GTX 1080 on pretty much test I've found. This is a massivly powerful card.
  2. For some unfanthenable reason, Ebayer was selling it for around £400 less than it should be.

Anyway, here's the final list

 

wDftSYU.jpg

illutian and Crazycrab like this

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