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ChronoAtog

Performance Tip / Graphical Increase Tips

68 posts in this topic

I will be looking at this form constantly, if you want some help with a specific game let me know

 

1. Unparking your CPU

 

Are you CPU's parked... don't know, use this program... if you already know about this you most likely already went to your registry edit, and fixed this, use this link

 

http://www.coderbag.com/Programming-C/Disable-CPU-Core-Parking-Utility

 

It's actually the small link (usually above those stupid "download ads") at the bottom of all the text

 

Core Parking, is what your PC will do to reserve power for your computer (this will make your laptop battery die faster though, so the program can turn it on and off for gaming), but the problem is Windows OS can be aggressive not letting another core open even if it's around 80% which can cause micro  stutter (aka fps  drops to 60->0->60  FPS) freezing the game for a second as it prepares the core, and when it's not needed again it will turn off again causing this to happen again and again. this will also make it all four cores are always on

 

2. Down sampling (Games that don't offer AA,  but this more taxing to your computer)

 

First I will give down sampling a explanation to what it is first

 

Down Samlping is OGSSAA (Ordered Grid SuperSampling AntiAliasing), and is simply the best of all Anti Aliasing but the most taxing to your computer, but seeing how some games do not have these options (aka console ports) this is the only way to add AA to those games. I will show you the math of what will happen when you down sample and what will happen to your fps

 

2880 x 1620 (4665600 Pixels) -> 1920 x 1080 (2073600 Pixels) 1/2.25 the fps (so 60 FPS would go down to 26 FPS)

(120 FPS -> 53 FPS)

 

3200 x 1800 (5760000 Pixels) -> 1920 x 1080 (2073600 Pixels) 1/2.78 the fps (so 60 FPS would go down to 22 FPS)

(120 FPS -> 44 FPS)

 

3840 x 2160 (8294400 Pixels) -> 1920 x 1080 (2073600 Pixels) 1/4 the fps (so 60 fps would go down to 15 FPS)

(120 FPS -> 30 FPS)

 

Al right here is how you do it on a NVIDIA CARD

 

1. Go To Nvidia Control Panel -> Adjust Desktop Size and Position, this will be under Display

2. Have these settings

-> Aspect Ratio

-> Perform Scaling: GPU

-> Override the Scaling mode set in games

3. Now go to Change Resolution -> Customize -> Enable Resolutions not exposed by this Display -> Create Custom Resolution
 

4.Now to do the down sampling, first keep it at the resolution you want so 1920x1080, switch the Standard to Manual, then when that is all done set the Horizontal Pixels and Vertical Lines of the resolution you want so as I put 3600 x 2025 as an example, but you will want something on the same aspect ratio, remember that)

oNuw9DS.jpg

 

VIOLA your done, my only thing you will need to have Refresh Rate 30HZ,60HZ,120HZ (dont recommend 120HZ one bit)

 

Here is the AMD guide to downsampling as you supposedly need a third program, but the words should be the same!

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=472941

( I would only REALLY Recommend down sampling if the game doesn't offer it, as the other types of AA wont look like this but this way is hardly effective, but this is more the hammer to a brick wall approach )

No Down Sampling

 

lycanmqu3o.png

 

Vs Down Sampling

 

lyacn29cu26.png

 

3, Power Management, setting your PCI-Express Link Power State to OFF and CPU Minimum to 100% can help it too (aka your CPU wont flux), you might also have to change this in the BIOS too

 

What this will do is make sure your CPU and GPU is always running full power this again is to stop micro stuttering

 

4. Have a 6xx/7xx series Nvidia Card?

 

In the MSI Afterburner, Riva Tuner Shell, evga Precision X try activating something called KBOOST, what these video cards do is have your GPU lower it's clock speeds depending on how much it is in use to make the card last long but causes unstable FPS as it will fluxate your FPS when there isn't much to process when there isn't to much causing the game to freeze at times

What KBOOST does is have it so it doesn't have your cores under clock themselves at random intervals which would cause the screen freezing
 
(again this will stop more micro stuttering)
 
5. Achieving Faster load times with a USB 3.0 Stick vs HDD 7200 RPM, or if you have a small SSD you can do this trick too

To give you an idea the average 7200 RPM Drive has a Read/Write speed that is around 80-100 MB, and a lot of the 64 GB thumb sticks (some 32 GB) sticks can have faster write speeds then the average HDD which is generally from 150-225 MB Read spead doubling or almost doubling the speed of your hard drive, as what's important for gaming is the READ speed (writing is when your installing, making files,ect)  so what you will do is take the BIGGEST game files, which are generally the data folder which it will load up, put them in your thumb stick. Let's say your Battlefield 4/Data Drive all the .CAS Files are 1gb each and the main bulk of the game loads up to your pc.
 
Step 1. Make a Back Up Folder in the directory with all the Data files so lets say Battlefield 4/Data/Backup, you would move all the .CAS Files your going to move out from that folder into there so cas_01.cas to cas_21.cas (Move them so Cut not copy)

Step 2. Now copy all the .CAS files onto your SSD or USB 3.0 Thumb drive

Step 3. Enter the CMD.EXE in ADMIN MODE (YOU MUST BE IN ADMIN MODE! AND HAVE FULL PRIVILIGES to both folders!)
 
Step 4.Enter the following command
 
MKLINK /d C:\Origin Games\Battlefield 4\Data\cas_01.cas G:\cas-01.cas

what you just made was a symbolic link, as now battlefield 4 will go oh I found the file here and your SSD/Thumb drive will go OH I ACTUALLY HAVE THE FILE HERE RAM READ THIS! (you will see a copy of the file you want in the battlefield 4/data folder with 0 bytes
 
Now repeat this for  Cas_01.cas to cas_021.cas
 
You can also use the program suggested below by vanhoe I added to my link but the program does mklink /j where it's making a symbolic link of a whole folder and everything inside, depending on the game this might be better (aka a game with a bunch of smaller .dat files) where symbolic is when the game has a few large files scattered about or you want both your HDD and SSD sending to your ram at the same time as Ram is about 5-15x faster depending on how much you spent for the SDD and or ram
 
 
6. DNS Server (this should help improve performance on Web Browsing, not so much gaming)
 
 
DNS stands for Domain Name System in the easiest way to explain it is the great internet Telephone book you put lets say www.google.ca, your computer wouldn't understand that since it's numbers so what the DNS does is translate www.google.ca into 173.194.70.94 making a IP address your computer can understand, the same thing you dont put your buddies name into the phone, you put his telephone number... but usually the average ISP DNS server is pretty crappy and will have to load up a few DNS's servers for one website making it take awhile, and there is a DNS "cache" will can over fill and remove previous domain names, in which it will have to relook everything up again
 
(this could possibly making searching servers up for games faster though, I dont think it will increase your ping though, more for browsing the internet)
 
The above program will fix find the fastest DNS server for you, the smaller the bar the better (aka the first one should be the best), but try to pick from two different DNS servers (aka you get to put two in, just have two different servers incase one goes down)
 
 
7. Enable Write Caching (Increase faster HDD performance)
 
This stores the data before your hard drive writes it... so I will say one thing
A. Have it on a secondary drive not holding your OS
B. Instantly turn it off during electrical storms/something that might cause power outage
C. Never press the reset button
D. Why you might loose data if you loose power or don't do the correct way of resetting of shutting down your PC
E. You are liable to any corrupted data
 
1. Go to Control Panel
2. Go to Device Manager
3. Go to Disk Drive
4. Select Properties
5. Select Policies
6. Check Enable Write Caching
 
Tip.8 How to boot up faster with a dual/quad core CPU
 
1. Go to MSCONFIG.exe *search it from your start menu*
2. Go to Boot
3. Advance Options
4. Check of Number Processors
5. 2/3/4 based on how many processors you have
 
 
 
 
 
TIPS From Other People ( I will say it right here I havent touched AMD/ATI in quite awhile so if you have to do something else)
(I will also update this with a tip or two daily, and try to update the tips from others)
 

 

Just want to inject this:

If you run AMD FX-series CPUs (like me), you have to disable core parking entirely and a few other power saving things to get Windows to run stable. AMD's SMT multithreading is not supported by Windows (Windows 7 will run them in HT mode. Windows 8 does a little better at even prioritizing, but Windows is not designed for running multiple threads on the same clock tick), and it causes Windows to get unstable and have timing errors because the cores can effectively run at different speeds and finish threads in a different order than Windows serves them to the CPU.

You may also need to disable HPT in the BIOS, though some say it's better to leave it on. It depends on your system what gives you the best results. On overclock systems you may have access to a lot of timing settings (I do on mine), but be aware that you really need to know what they all mean before messing with them because the FX CPUs are already pushed hard from the factory, so any change can make them extremely unstable.

 

Patches you'll need for AMD FX on Windows 7 (they're included with Windows 8 I believe):

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2646060

NOTE: These patches were written for Bulldozer, but the problem is even bigger with Vishera (because it runs much faster), and the new one (the 9xxx models) that I can't remember the name of.

Also note that these patches are for 64 bit Windows, and quite frankly you should not be running 32 bit on any CPU released the past 10 years or so.

 

 

PC Building TIPS

 

Strongest (Current) Video Cards In Order for Nvidia (600 vs 700 Series)

GTX 790 (TBA  1200$+ Estimate) > GTX 690 (999$) > GTX 780 (500$) > GTX Titan (999$) > GTX 770 (380$) > GTX 680 (440$) > GTX 670 (290$) > GTX 760 (290$) >GTX 660 (210$)

Strongest (Current) Video Cards in Order for AMD (7000 vs 8000 Series)

AMD Current line up isn't as confusing it would pretty much look like this

AMD 8890 > AMD 7890 > AMD 8850

It's pretty much the performance is pretty close to each other, the series higher will generally be the more powerful one, as the NVIDIA one is a tad more complicated right now with 600 series being better and worst in some scenarios (it's currently the most powerful GPU on the NVIDIA side, beating the 680 and 780, just a general tip of how it works though

Mid End Game (199-399$ Range)
GTX X60
GTX X70
AMD x750
AMD x770
AMD x850

High End Gaming (400-1000$ Range)

GTX X70
GTX X80
GTX x90
AMD X870
AMD X950
AMD X990

DO not pick up a GTX Titan, it isn't a gaming card, it's what we like to call a work station card, and is more designed for having HIGH Ram and doing calculations and is more made for the line of doing CGI Effects for movies, Scientific Calculations, Very Intensive Photo Shop. It's is pretty much slightly better 770 like the difference might be 1-4 FPS in games

4 vs 8 vs 16 GB's of ram?

The good old question, as of Right now is how much RAM do I need? Here is what my thoughts are on how much ram you should build your PC with

4 GB is decent, and all you need to play all the current games right now but it slowly seems like we will be pushing the way of 8 GB with the new consoles coming out, so in my honest opinion, 4GB will most likely become obsolete soon and 8GB of ram at a decent speed is around 40-60$ which is pretty cheap  as i think the 4GB is 20-30$, and with the console limit of 8GB I highly doubt we will need to go past 8GB any time soon as this seems to be the new norm setup by the consoles, but if you want to be safe pick up a motherboard that has four DDR 3 RAM slots, which might add you possibly another 30-60$ on your PC, but it saves you from shelling out about 100$ for 16GB (2 x 8GB) RAM, or buyying another MOBO 100$+ in the future

Why would I want to go past 8GB's of ram? (For Gaming)

Well there is a nifty trick if you want faster load times then the master race and their PC's with SSD... you can create something called a RAM DISK which turns your RAM into a hard drive, but you will need the program RAM DISK to do this

http://memory.dataram.com/products-and-services/software/ramdisk/ramdisk-purchase-and-download

 

Since RAM completely wipes itself when your PC goes off, this program lets you save a image that it can load up when ever you boot it back on it, but Chrono ATOG how much faster is this compared to a SSD? I load Skyrim in 20ish seconds on HDD, 10ish seconds on SSD, every game I made a Ramdisk... 1 second, statistically speaking it's 15 times-ish faster then a SSD

 

i5 vs i7 also 4 vs 8 core processors

 

 

Should you get a I7 for gaming, I mean if you have the budget for it go for it, but will it be that much of a different... ehhh.. not really, to get honest, you will only need around a I5-2400 or better (you can safely over clock it to around 3.3 GHZ, it's what I currently have in a stock cooling PC. but the perfect CPU for gaming and cheap right now would be around 200-300$ reaching 3.1-4 GHZ, the newer consoles are using eight core but at a lower speed, I will also give you an idea how a CPU will work if you have 4 cores of CPU at 3.3 ghz in a quad core

 

 

doesn't equal this 3.3 x 4 cores = 13.2 GHZ

 

 

it means you have four cores that have 3.3 ghz of processing power, and if you want a program to run it will use a part of your CPU to calculate, but the problem if lets say 1/2 our CPU  is in use and you want to use 2/3's of your cpu it would have  to go to the processor that has the room to do that process so a eight cores can be slower and less ineffective the a CPU

 

Full Tower vs Mid Tower

When should you get a full tower, or a Mid Tower Computer Case? Well I'll tell you the benefits of both

Mid Tower

+ Cheaper
+ Less Fans required to push the dust out
+ Lighter
+ Only Planning to use one video card
+ Micro ATX Motherboard 

- Cant hold some of the larger more powerful motherboards
- Slightly warmer then full towers, unless you pay a good extra chunk of cash (there are mid-towers that are better then full towers at being cold but again that's in the 100 buckaroo region for a case and it's a slight one to two degrees colder)
- Less Room making a water cooler hard to put in

Full Tower

+ Slightly bit cooler temeprature
+ Easier to add Water Cooling
+ More Room for Multiple Parts
+ Full ATX Motherboard
+ Planning to do major overclocking where the slight temperature change might be helpful in the end(its only 1-3 degrees cooler really)

- Need more fans to push out the dust
- More Moola (money)
- Heavier

 

My only tip is if your going to use water cooling and SLI/Crossfire, and using a Full ATX and not a Micro ATX go for a tower, if not just pick up a Medium Tower

 

Decent Gaming Computer

Graphics Card: 670 GTX [265$]

CPU:  I5 - 2400 (3.1 GHZ, 4 cores) [200$]

MOBO: This is up to opinion but if look for a decently priced should be around [60-70$] (needs to support LGA 1155)

RAM: 1600 Mhz 8 GB (2 x 4GB sticks) [65-85$]

Hard Drive: 1 Terabyte HD [100-120$]

PSU: RAIDMAX RX-850AE 850W ATX12V  [109$]

Case: Any Micro ATX box [30-40$]

 

Reasoning for Parts

GPU: the extra 200$ or even 100$ or 50$ is not worth the "slight" performance boost you might get out of the games is not worth it, it's a 10-15 FPS in most games then a 780 which is the second most powerful card out right now, it would also be cheaper to again SLI if you decided to upgrade with another 670

CPU: 3.1 GHZ is all you really need right now and seeing how it can safely be OC to 3.4 GHZ, it is pretty good right now for what it needs to do, but feel free to upgrade this if you desire

Mobo: This is brand preference to me but if you desire to upgrade to SLI do pay the extra money for it

Ram: Again mostly brand preference again, just buy one with heat sinks if you want to OC them in the future

PSU: ALWAYS GET GOLD Certified, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF YOUR PC. END OF STORY!

Case: Really up to you for how much you want to spend

 

Total: 815$ Before tax, but if you already own some of the parts and upgrading your computer

-> Have a HDD and case?
675$

-> Have a PSU/HDD/and Case?
566$

-> Have a Mobo/HDD/ and Case?
500$

 

Bonus Total

+70$ (a 64gb solid state drive to use for games)

+60$ (a 7.1 surround sound card)

+60 (SLI MOBO)

 

 

 

GREAT LINKS!

http://cpuboss.com/

 

http://gpuboss.com/

 

http://ssdboss.com/

 

http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover (easier version of Step 5, wont work with Valve steam games though) (From Vanhoe)

 

Again if I have made any errors, do let me know I will flame you and call you an idiot and say my pc is  bette- 

Nah do let me know, as this forum is to help peoples computers run faster, deal with games that wont offer Anti aliasing and such

 

 

 

ALSO, feel free to send me a PM, give me a budget for a pc and any parts your thinking you can bring over to the new computer, I will gladly try to make you the best PC you can!

 

Great Gaming Laptops for a Decent Price

http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Series-GX70-3BE-007US-17-3-Inch/dp/B00CU9GKUS%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAICE7LOAJMK3SSLPA%26tag%3Dp00935-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00CU9GKUS

 

http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Series-GX60-3AE-216US-15-6-Inch/dp/B00CR8WB7I%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAICE7LOAJMK3SSLPA%26tag%3Dp00935-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00CR8WB7I

 

They both use this GPU

http://www.notebookcheck.net/AMD-Radeon-HD-8970M.90656.0.html

 

which seem to run some games above 30 FPS on ultra but every game is playable on HIGH for 1300$ with tax, that's a decent gaming laptop

 

Free to play Games

Low End PC's
DnD Online - F2P, all the pay stuff is available for awards from the harder PVE adventures. Great if you like DnD

 

Get Amped 2 - F2P, a fun free to play fighter game where you can design your own model (kinda basic combat system like super smash bros where you dont have to know 50 million combos)

 

Lost Sector - F2P MMO in alpha that plays like X-com combat wise

 

Medium End Pc's

Planetside 2 - F2P Open world FPS, the problem is there is a slight pay wall if your not amazing at the game

Warface - F2p FPS with co-op and bf3/cod/css like game play running on the cry engine


Warframe - F2P FPS... your space  robot ninjas enough said

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Great thread man, I've already done the unparking and it worked wonders - I've a beast PC so I'll leave the AA alone for now, till' the competitive scene of BF4 picks up

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Great thread man, I've already done the unparking and it worked wonders - I've a beast PC so I'll leave the AA alone for now, till' the competitive scene of BF4 picks up

you wont really need this, and again 120 FPS is hard to pull off it's more for games that don't give AA, you can force it into the game I mean if you want the very little extra quality go ahead but again the other AA's but again they might be 3/4 performance... for the 1/4 performance instead

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so it's like CPU control (for WinXP OS). You can choose how many cores can run for certain applications. Worked for me back then with S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Had only one core Support and with CPU control adding all cores, i had 35fps more than before.

For Grafic cars back then there was almost the same tool called GPU control (For SLI Cards).

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A nice thread.When i have the time i will try and add some tips for performance increase on low spec PCs.

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I have a question sir... I have a Lenovo laptop with a Nvidia GTX 770M > http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-770M.88995.0.html and an Intel Core i6 but in the Nvidia control panel I only have the option of 3D configuration... Maybe the tip only works for desktop computers... I don't know If I can change the screen device setup for making Nvidia the default screen driver and not Intel HD graphics.

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Just want to inject this:

If you run AMD FX-series CPUs (like me), you have to disable core parking entirely and a few other power saving things to get Windows to run stable. AMD's SMT multithreading is not supported by Windows (Windows 7 will run them in HT mode. Windows 8 does a little better at even prioritizing, but Windows is not designed for running multiple threads on the same clock tick), and it causes Windows to get unstable and have timing errors because the cores can effectively run at different speeds and finish threads in a different order than Windows serves them to the CPU.

You may also need to disable HPT in the BIOS, though some say it's better to leave it on. It depends on your system what gives you the best results. On overclock systems you may have access to a lot of timing settings (I do on mine), but be aware that you really need to know what they all mean before messing with them because the FX CPUs are already pushed hard from the factory, so any change can make them extremely unstable.

 

Patches you'll need for AMD FX on Windows 7 (they're included with Windows 8 I believe):

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2646060

NOTE: These patches were written for Bulldozer, but the problem is even bigger with Vishera (because it runs much faster), and the new one (the 9xxx models) that I can't remember the name of.

Also note that these patches are for 64 bit Windows, and quite frankly you should not be running 32 bit on any CPU released the past 10 years or so.

SJAnimist and Tobfree like this

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Great thread! As a low-end PC user i thank you!

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I have a question sir... I have a Lenovo laptop with a Nvidia GTX 770M > http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-770M.88995.0.html and an Intel Core i6 but in the Nvidia control panel I only have the option of 3D configuration... Maybe the tip only works for desktop computers... I don't know If I can change the screen device setup for making Nvidia the default screen driver and not Intel HD graphics.

Send me a PM about which one your trying to do and I'll try to help you, if your talking about the down sampling it is the opposite of a performance booster, and I doubt it's possible on a lap as it's made for a specific resolution and might not be able to go above a certain resolution

Superboy_Prime likes this

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The first link on the OP links directly to this thread, can you fix that?

ChronoAtog likes this

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The first link on the OP links directly to this thread, can you fix that?

Yes I can fix that, but will I is the question (try clicking on it now)

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Send me a PM about which one your trying to do and I'll try to help you, if your talking about the down sampling it is the opposite of a performance booster, and I doubt it's possible on a lap as it's made for a specific resolution and might not be able to go above a certain resolution

I've been researching and yes, It doesn't worth the mess. I was talking about the down sampling, sorry for not mention it. I'll try to unpark my laptop. 

This thread is very useful, btw. Thanks.

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I've been researching and yes, It doesn't worth the mess. I was talking about the down sampling, sorry for not mention it. I'll try to unpark my laptop. 

This thread is very useful, btw. Thanks.

Yeah I wouldn't down sample really on a laptop, because their resolutions are pretty much built into the monitor

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You should integrate the AMD R7 and R9 CPUs in the GPU list.

The AMD R9 290X with a custom Arctic Accelero Xtreme III cooler on top is easily the best graphics card on the market atm for about $500. And it's $250 cheaper than the comparable Geforce GTX 780 TI (which also is not in your list). transparent-pixel._V386942701_.gif

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I completely agree with you in regards to the GTX Titan.  I upgraded from a GTX 680 to a Titan and was very dissapointed with the gaming performance increase.  I was only getting an extra 5-20 fps, depending on the game.

 

Definitely not worth the money if your rig is just for gaming.  I also do CGI / Visual effects stuff though, so the Titan isn't completely wasted :) .

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5. Achieving Faster load times with a USB 3.0 Stick vs HDD 7200 RPM, or if you have a small SSD you can do this trick too

To give you an idea the average 7200 RPM Drive has a Read/Write speed that is around 80-100 MB, and a lot of the 64 GB thumb sticks (some 32 GB) sticks can have faster write speeds then the average HDD which is generally from 150-225 MB Read spead doubling or almost doubling the speed of your hard drive, as what's important for gaming is the READ speed (writing is when your installing, making files,ect)  so what you will do is take the BIGGEST game files, which are generally the data folder which it will load up, put them in your thumb stick. Let's say your Battlefield 4/Data Drive all the .CAS Files are 1gb each and the main bulk of the game loads up to your pc.

 
Step 1. Make a Back Up Folder in the directory with all the Data files so lets say Battlefield 4/Data/Backup, you would move all the .CAS Files your going to move out from that folder into there so cas_01.cas to cas_21.cas (Move them so Cut not copy)

Step 2. Now copy all the .CAS files onto your SSD or USB 3.0 Thumb drive

Step 3. Enter the CMD.EXE in ADMIN MODE (YOU MUST BE IN ADMIN MODE! AND HAVE FULL PRIVILIGES to both folders!)

 
Step 4.Enter the following command

 

MKLINK /d C:\Origin Games\Battlefield 4\Data\cas_01.cas G:\cas-01.cas

what you just made was a symbolic link, as now battlefield 4 will go oh I found the file here and your SSD/Thumb drive will go OH I ACTUALLY HAVE THE FILE HERE RAM READ THIS! (you will see a copy of the file you want in the battlefield 4/data folder with 0 bytes

 
Now repeat this for  Cas_01.cas to cas_021.cas
 

Or just use the Steam Mover (http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover). It's basically the same thing with a GUI.

ChronoAtog likes this

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5. Achieving Faster load times with a USB 3.0 Stick vs HDD 7200 RPM, or if you have a small SSD you can do this trick too

To give you an idea the average 7200 RPM Drive has a Read/Write speed that is around 80-100 MB, and a lot of the 64 GB thumb sticks (some 32 GB) sticks can have faster write speeds then the average HDD which is generally from 150-225 MB Read spead doubling or almost doubling the speed of your hard drive, as what's important for gaming is the READ speed (writing is when your installing, making files,ect) so what you will do is take the BIGGEST game files, which are generally the data folder which it will load up, put them in your thumb stick. Let's say your Battlefield 4/Data Drive all the .CAS Files are 1gb each and the main bulk of the game loads up to your pc.

Step 1. Make a Back Up Folder in the directory with all the Data files so lets say Battlefield 4/Data/Backup, you would move all the .CAS Files your going to move out from that folder into there so cas_01.cas to cas_21.cas (Move them so Cut not copy)

Step 2. Now copy all the .CAS files onto your SSD or USB 3.0 Thumb drive

Step 3. Enter the CMD.EXE in ADMIN MODE (YOU MUST BE IN ADMIN MODE! AND HAVE FULL PRIVILIGES to both folders!)

Step 4.Enter the following command

MKLINK /d C:\Origin Games\Battlefield 4\Data\cas_01.cas G:\cas-01.cas

what you just made was a symbolic link, as now battlefield 4 will go oh I found the file here and your SSD/Thumb drive will go OH I ACTUALLY HAVE THE FILE HERE RAM READ THIS! (you will see a copy of the file you want in the battlefield 4/data folder with 0 bytes

Now repeat this for Cas_01.cas to cas_021.cas

Or just use the Steam Mover (http://www.traynier.com/software/steammover). It's basically the same thing with a GUI.

 

"Junction Points can only relocate complete folders, not individual files. So unfortunately it will not help with the massive .gcf files in the steamapps folder itself (mostly Valve games such as Counter-Strike and the Half-Life series). To those that have asked, I have tried using mklink to create hardlinks, but they do not work to link to another drive - they only provide a shortcut to a file on the same drive."

The thing is this does whole folders, which for the most part wont be needed as all you need to put on the SSD, is the large files so it can send it to your ram fast enough, and you will have both your SSD and your HDD sending files to your RAM my way if you only take the data files, but this is a easier way, and this guy doesn't under the point of symbolic links your supposed to do mklink /d (or just mklink as /d is just the default) to do what he wants because a hard link is like a copy of the file, and the HDD will still read the  one in the folder... again the fact that he didn't know mklink /d the thing it defaults to or what a symbolic link is kinda funny

Demiser500 likes this

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thanks for making this thread, for you AMD guys, you should also download AMD RaptR, this is a great tool that improves the FPS in your games. I really recommend that you download it.

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Thank you for the tips.  I will see if I can use them.  I do have only question though.  Is a GTX 640 a decent graphics even though it is one of the lower end graphic cards.

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Thank you for the tips.  I will see if I can use them.  I do have only question though.  Is a GTX 640 a decent graphics even though it is one of the lower end graphic cards.

you should be able to play most games on medium/low settings on 1920x1080. maybe medium/high on lower resolutions but I would say stick around medium in general if your looking for a upgrade this is decently priced

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127685

269$ for a 670, the 770 is a little bit better but not worth the 100$ for maybe the 1-3 fps boost you might get from it, and could be safely over clocked to it's level anyways

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I'm def trying some of these tips tonight when I get home! Please let me get better performance out of my PC! 

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